Again, a Sigma DP2 shot developed with RD, LR and SPP [updated]

SPP and LR
Sigma DP2, ISO200. SPP conversion. Click above photo to enter article. EDIT: The above shot is taken using Sigmas optional polarizer  (DG Filter, Wide C-PL).

Another shot converted.

Sigma DP2 shot, ISO100. [edit! It was those extra shots in the end of this post that was ISO200]

These should be seen full size I guess in order to really see any difference. Also they’re developed last night and I notice that in daytime I make my shots a bit lighter, and nighttime I make them a bit darker – due to the surrounding light and my iMacs screen. Not very good. Especially the last SPP shot looks dark but full screen without any distraction it looks better. :)

The three developers - again..
Above is Raw Developer 1.84 Click it for medium size or here for Original.

The three developers - again..
Adobe Lightroom 2.4
and this time I once more wanted to do some painting but in order to keep this test clean I did nothing. :) Click image for medium flickr size or here for Original.

The three developers - again..
Sigma Photo Pro 3.3, Mac version. Not using landscape color mode as it takes a way some nice green / yellow nuances. Click here for original.

I didn’t use Aperture this time as I mainly use it when developing shots of people and shots taken with the SD14. Aperture has very nice control that is fit for that type of shots.


SPP and LR SPP and LR

About Carl Rytterfalk

Welcome to my blog! I'm Carl Rytterfalk, a swedish photographer who loves everything that is interesting in the world of photography. In 2002 I fell in love with the three layered Foveon sensor and has since then been an addicted user of Sigma cameras. Though I use Canon and Nikon as well. :)
This entry was posted in Adobe Lightroom, Full size, How to, Raw Developer, Sigma DP2, Sigma Photo Pro. Bookmark the permalink.

9 Responses to Again, a Sigma DP2 shot developed with RD, LR and SPP [updated]

  1. Robin says:

    I like Lightroom most here. But if you brightened up the SPP version a little bit, it should become equal or even better. It’s noticeable darker. =)

  2. The whole problem with shots coming out bright and dark is why it’s recommended that you always edit against an 18% neutral gray background rather than white or black.

  3. Ted Johnson says:

    To me the SPP is the most three dimensional of the versions, with RD next, and LR last.

  4. But Mark, that’s easier said then done! I could have my walls painted 18% grey – I guess my Alu iMac 24″ has more or less a grey tone. (there is a black bezel around though). Also, when I work with a shot I often work in full screen mode so my desktop background or software color makes very little difference. Btw, I found this interesting article about spellings of grey/gray! :D

  5. alexandru says:

    I suggest to use a monitor calibration device that is capable of “intelligent ambient light control – utilizing an embedded high-precision sensor, Spyder3 automatically measures the ambient light within a room for a new level of precision calibration. Spyder3 provides you with options to change either your studio lighting or display profile if the ambient light changes.”

  6. alexandru says:

    Btw., I agree with Ted, the SPP is different in a good way.

  7. Ted Johnson says:

    I also feel SPP leans toward blues and greens vs. LR, and it may be the blue/green bias in the photo may cause it to be, or at least appear to be, darker.

  8. I think the best thing to do is to just forget about the physical environment you’re in, and make brightness adjustments to your image when you’re zoomed out and there is a field of neutral gray surrounding the image. This can be done in Lightroom and Aperture, but their full screen modes mess this up since they insist on making the background black, which is the wrong approach completely.

  9. Graham says:

    I agree with Ted as well that SPP gives the leaves the best 3D look. The texture really pops.

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